The story behind Zircon Swiss
A pioneer from Biel – and an idea that is protected this time
The story of Zircon Swiss begins with Marc Lederrey. For more than two decades he shaped watchmaking as head of research and development at Rado: in 1960 Rado filed the patent for a scratch- and tarnish-resistant watch case – with Marc Lederrey named as inventor. It led to the legendary DiaStar in 1962, one of the world's first scratch-resistant watches. Dozens more Rado patents bearing his name followed until 1986 – among them, in 1980, a watch case whose surround can explicitly be made of ceramic.
Hard, enduring materials remained his life's work. In 1987 he set up on his own in Biel/Bienne and founded Black Pearl Zircon SA. He called his watches of black zirconium blended with ceramic «Les perles noires» – the black pearls – and saw them as his third revolution: «The first shock I caused on the watch market was the scratch-proof watch. Second shock: sapphire. Third shock: black zirconium.» (Journal du Jura, 23 January 1988)
The press celebrated him as «Monsieur Inrayable» – Mr Scratch-proof. «I have always been five years ahead», he told the Geneva newspaper La Suisse in February 1988, which reported on the «new invention by a man from Biel: the ceramic watch» – in a gleaming black never achieved before. Other watch factories bought his watches and launched them under their own brands.
Marc Lederrey shared his knowledge openly, including with companions from the industry. Soon afterwards came a clear market displacement: large groups conquered the world market with the ceramic watch, other factories sold his watches under their own names – and the small manufacture from Biel was pushed out of the market. But the idea lived on.
Today Markus, David and Kyrollos Istafanous carry this legacy forward – with an invention that never existed before: the Bow-Watch-Tie, the bow tie with an integrated Swiss watch and a bezel in faceted zirconium dioxide ceramic. Patent pending, CH 722154. This time, the idea is protected.
What the press wrote about Marc Lederrey in 1988
Two Swiss newspapers reported in 1988 on the inventor from Biel and his new watch in black zirconium and ceramic – the «perles noires» that gave Black Pearl Zircon its name.

Journal du Jura, Biel – 23 January 1988, page 3
«The black pearls»
«They have the purity and beauty of pearls. They are revolutionary. Their inventor, Marc Lederrey, is proud of the third shock they cause.» Lederrey in the interview: «The first shock was the scratch-proof watch. The second: sapphire. The third: black zirconium.»
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La Suisse, Geneva – 18 February 1988, page 5, by Michel Gogniat
«New invention by a man from Biel – ceramic watch»
«I have always been five years ahead!» – the newspaper quotes Marc Lederrey. He is called «Monsieur Inrayable», inventor of the scratch-proof watch that sold by the millions. Now he presents a watch in zirconium ceramic, «a material of the future».
View the full article as PDF (PDF) →Excerpts from the Swiss newspaper archive e-newspaperarchives.ch. e-newspaperarchives.ch →


