Zircon Swiss

Since our founding, we have united traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design. Each of our pieces tells a story of passion, precision, and perfection.

About Zircon Swiss – in Biel since 1987

ABOUT US

About Zircon Swiss

A man from Biel who made the watch scratch-proof

Before the Bow-Watch-Tie there was Marc Lederrey: an engineer who made the watch scratch-proof, brought sapphire crystal to the watch and then started again with black zirconium. His traces can still be found today in patent files, official gazettes and newspaper archives on three continents. This is his story, and the story of Black Pearl Zircon.

The story behind Zircon Swiss

A pioneer from Biel – and an idea that is protected this time

The story of Zircon Swiss begins with Marc Lederrey. For more than two decades he shaped watchmaking as head of research and development at Rado: in 1960 Rado filed the patent for a scratch- and tarnish-resistant watch case – with Marc Lederrey named as inventor. It led to the legendary DiaStar in 1962, one of the world's first scratch-resistant watches. Dozens more Rado patents bearing his name followed until 1986 – among them, in 1980, a watch case whose surround can explicitly be made of ceramic.

Hard, enduring materials remained his life's work. In 1987 he set up on his own in Biel/Bienne and founded Black Pearl Zircon SA. He called his watches of black zirconium blended with ceramic «Les perles noires» – the black pearls – and saw them as his third revolution: «The first shock I caused on the watch market was the scratch-proof watch. Second shock: sapphire. Third shock: black zirconium.» (Journal du Jura, 23 January 1988)

The press celebrated him as «Monsieur Inrayable» – Mr Scratch-proof. «I have always been five years ahead», he told the Geneva newspaper La Suisse in February 1988, which reported on the «new invention by a man from Biel: the ceramic watch» – in a gleaming black never achieved before. Other watch factories bought his watches and launched them under their own brands.

Marc Lederrey shared his knowledge openly, including with companions from the industry. Soon afterwards came a clear market displacement: large groups conquered the world market with the ceramic watch, other factories sold his watches under their own names – and the small manufacture from Biel was pushed out of the market. But the idea lived on.

Today Markus, David and Kyrollos Istafanous carry this legacy forward – with an invention that never existed before: the Bow-Watch-Tie, the bow tie with an integrated Swiss watch and a bezel in faceted zirconium dioxide ceramic. Patent pending, CH 722154. This time, the idea is protected.

What the press wrote about Marc Lederrey in 1988

Two Swiss newspapers reported in 1988 on the inventor from Biel and his new watch in black zirconium and ceramic – the «perles noires» that gave Black Pearl Zircon its name.

Journal du Jura 1988: «Les perles noires» – their inventor, Marc Lederrey

Journal du Jura, Biel – 23 January 1988, page 3

«The black pearls»

«They have the purity and beauty of pearls. They are revolutionary. Their inventor, Marc Lederrey, is proud of the third shock they cause.» Lederrey in the interview: «The first shock was the scratch-proof watch. The second: sapphire. The third: black zirconium.»

View the full article as PDF (PDF) →
La Suisse 1988: «Nouvelle invention d'un Biennois – Montre en céramique» – Marc Lederrey

La Suisse, Geneva – 18 February 1988, page 5, by Michel Gogniat

«New invention by a man from Biel – ceramic watch»

«I have always been five years ahead!» – the newspaper quotes Marc Lederrey. He is called «Monsieur Inrayable», inventor of the scratch-proof watch that sold by the millions. Now he presents a watch in zirconium ceramic, «a material of the future».

View the full article as PDF (PDF) →

Excerpts from the Swiss newspaper archive e-newspaperarchives.ch. e-newspaperarchives.ch →

More about Marc Lederrey →

Chronicle

Almost seven decades of hard materials

  1. 1958

    The first patent

    Marc Lederrey files a patent for a watch dial for the Schlup & Cie watch factory (then Rado) in Lengnau (CH 345 602). It is the start of some 25 patent families in almost three decades.

  2. 1960–1962

    The watch becomes scratch-proof

    On 5 October 1960, Schlup & Cie (then Rado) files a patent for a scratch- and tarnish-resistant watch case, inventor: Marc Lederrey. It leads in 1962 to the DiaStar, one of the world's first scratch-resistant watches.

  3. 1961

    A crystal made of synthetic stone

    Patent CH 379 407: a watch crystal made of synthetic stone. Lederrey later called sapphire his «second shock» to the watch industry.

  4. 1973

    Vice-director

    The Swiss Official Gazette of Commerce lists him as vice-director of Schlup & Cie AG (then Rado). He remains the inventor behind further cases and crystals.

  5. 1980–1983

    Ceramic and sapphire in the case

    Patents for a case whose surround can be made of ceramic (EP 0 041 481) and for a sapphire case (EP 0 098 240). Both are still cited today as prior art in patents of major watch and technology groups, right up to the sapphire and ceramic covers of modern smartwatches.

  6. 1987

    Black Pearl Zircon SA

    On 15 April, Black Pearl Zircon SA is registered in Biel/Bienne, with Marc Lederrey as board member and director. In August the trademark «ZIRCON BLACK PEARL» for watches follows.

  7. 1988

    «Les perles noires»

    The Journal du Jura and the Geneva newspaper La Suisse report on the watches of black zirconium and ceramic, in a gleaming black that no one had achieved before.

  8. 1989

    Protection in seven countries

    The trademark «ZIRCON BLACK PEARL» is registered internationally: Germany, East Germany, Austria, Benelux, France, Italy, Spain and Portugal.

  9. 2001

    Online in four languages

    zircon.ch goes online: the «Black Pearl» with 12 facets or one, in zirconium dioxide ceramic with sapphire crystal, Swiss made.

  10. 2023–2024

    The next generation

    Markus, David and Kyrollos Istafanous take over the board of Black Pearl Zircon SA and carry the legacy forward.

  11. 2026

    The Bow-Watch-Tie

    A bow tie in Como silk with an integrated Swiss watch and a faceted zirconium dioxide bezel. Patent pending CH 722154, registered design CH 148284.

From the archives

What newspapers, official gazettes and trade journals recorded

We found these sources in archives in Switzerland, Singapore and the USA. Click a card to read the document or summary right here.

OUR STORY

Since 1987

Since 1987, Black Pearl Zircon SA in Biel/Bienne has stood for hard, enduring materials – founded by Marc Lederrey, former head of research and development at Rado.

Today Zircon Swiss carries this legacy forward with the Bow-Watch-Tie: Swiss craftsmanship, a protected invention and a bezel in zirconium dioxide ceramic.

OUR PHILOSOPHY

Our Values

01

Craftsmanship and Quality

Every Zircon SA bow tie is handcrafted in Switzerland, combining tradition and precision with the finest materials for unparalleled quality.

02

Timeless Elegance

Our designs capture the essence of classic style with a modern touch, offering bow ties that are refined yet versatile for any occasion.

03

Attention to Detail

Every detail of our bow ties, from the stitching to the packaging, is designed for a first-class experience and reflects our commitment to excellence.

04

Sustainability and Ethics

We value responsible fashion and use ethically sourced materials to ensure luxury without compromising the environment or workers.