Bow tie with a tuxedo – and the watch?

Black tie, white tie, cocktail: the dress codes in brief

"Black tie" on an invitation means a tuxedo (dinner jacket): a jacket with silk-faced lapels, matching trousers with a side stripe, a white shirt, black patent shoes and a bow tie. It is the standard for galas, balls, opera premieres and formal dinners.

"White tie" is one step more formal and calls for a tailcoat with a white piqué waistcoat and a white bow tie. For "cocktail" or "business attire", a tuxedo is not required and a dark suit is enough.

The bow tie for a tuxedo: what matters

The classic choice with a tuxedo is a black bow tie, ideally in silk with a sheen that matches the lapels. Its width should suit the proportions of face and collar: no wider than the outer corners of the eyes, no narrower than the neck.

A self-tied bow tie is considered more elegant because it looks slightly irregular. What matters most is that it sits straight and the shirt collar disappears neatly beneath it.

The traditional question: which black tie watch?

An old rule of etiquette says no watch with a tuxedo, because a guest at a celebration should not be checking the time. Today the rule is applied loosely, but most style guides still recommend restraint.

There are three common answers. First, a slim dress watch with a plain dial and black leather strap that slips under the cuff. Second, the pocket watch, worn on the waistcoat with a tailcoat. Third, no watch at all. Large sports or dive watches are considered out of place with black tie.

A new answer: the watch on the bow tie

The Zircon Swiss Bow-Watch-Tie moves the watch from the wrist to the collar. A gold-plated holder plate fixes a Swiss watch firmly to the bow tie, right where the knot would sit. The cuff stays clean, and the time becomes part of your look instead of a furtive glance at the wrist.

Inside is a Swiss Made quartz movement ETA 978.002, protected by sapphire crystal and a bezel of faceted zirconium dioxide ceramic. The bow tie itself is made of silk from Como and handcrafted in Switzerland. The design is registered as Swiss design no. 148284, and a patent has been applied for (CH 722154).

Choosing colour and model for the occasion

For black tie, the Classic Black is the natural choice: black silk that matches the lapels. The Classic White suits white tie and weddings. Both are priced at CHF 1,900.

For more expression, the Barock line in Brown, Silver or Blue features ornamental silk at CHF 2,500; Brown and Silver are limited to 250 pieces each. It works well for evenings where the dress code leaves some room.

Checklist for a black tie evening

Tuxedo freshly pressed, shirt with turndown or wing collar, cufflinks, black patent shoes, black socks. Straighten the bow tie in the mirror and check the watch on it.

The watch is rated 3 ATM and protected against splashes and rain, but it is not made for swimming. After the evening, the Bow-Watch-Tie goes back into its wooden case.

Frequently asked questions