Swiss Made: what turns a watch into a Swiss watch

The legal basis: SR 232.119

The use of “Swiss” for watches is governed by the Ordinance of 23 December 1971 on the Use of “Switzerland” or “Swiss” for Watches, listed in the Swiss Classified Compilation of Federal Legislation as SR 232.119. It is based on the Trade Mark Protection Act and was revised as part of Switzerland's “Swissness” legislation. The revised version has applied since 1 January 2017; the requirement on the watch's technical development has been in force since 1 January 2019.

The ordinance lists the indications that may be used only for Swiss watches and Swiss movements: “Switzerland”, “Swiss”, “Swiss product”, “made in Switzerland”, “Swiss quality” and any other wording that contains the Swiss name or could be confused with it – as well as the Swiss cross. “Swiss made” is one of these indications.

The criteria for a Swiss watch

Under Art. 1a of the ordinance, a watch is considered Swiss only if all of the following conditions are met: its technical development takes place in Switzerland; its movement is Swiss; its movement is cased up in Switzerland; the manufacturer carries out the final inspection of the watch in Switzerland; and at least 60 per cent of the manufacturing costs are incurred in Switzerland.

For purely mechanical watches, technical development covers at least the mechanical construction and prototyping. For watches that are not purely mechanical – quartz watches, for example – it also includes the design of the printed circuits, the display and the software.

The 60 per cent threshold refers to the manufacturing costs of the complete watch. Costs of natural products that cannot be produced in Switzerland for natural reasons are excluded from the calculation.

When a movement is Swiss

Art. 2 sets separate criteria for the movement. A movement is Swiss if its technical development takes place in Switzerland, it is assembled and inspected by the manufacturer in Switzerland, at least 60 per cent of its manufacturing costs are incurred in Switzerland, and components of Swiss manufacture – excluding the cost of assembly – account for at least 50 per cent of the value of all components.

A Swiss movement alone therefore does not make a Swiss watch. If a Swiss movement is cased up abroad, the finished watch may not be called Swiss. In that case, Swiss indications may appear on the movement only if they are not visible to the buyer (Art. 3 para. 2).

Quartz or mechanical: both can be Swiss made

A common misconception is that only mechanical watches can be Swiss watches. The ordinance does distinguish between purely mechanical and other movements, but only when defining what technical development includes. A quartz watch can carry “Swiss made” just like a mechanical one, provided it meets every criterion.

What matters is not the type of movement but where the watch is developed, assembled, cased up and inspected – and where most of the value is created.

How Zircon Swiss applies the criteria

Zircon Swiss is the brand of Black Pearl Zircon SA, based in Biel/Bienne and entered in the commercial register since 1987. Its sole product is the Bow-Watch-Tie, a bow tie with an integrated watch; according to the company, it is made in Switzerland.

The Bow-Watch-Tie runs on the Swiss-made ETA 978.002 quartz movement. The case is brass with a 10 µ gold plating; the watch has a sapphire crystal, is water-resistant to 3 ATM and features a faceted zirconium dioxide ceramic bezel with 1, 3 or 12 facets, set with zirconia stones. The silk bow tie is handmade in Switzerland.

The silk of the Bow-Watch-Tie comes from Como. Questions of material like this show why the ordinance works with a cost share: it does not require every part to come from Switzerland, but it does require the essential steps and the majority of manufacturing costs to be Swiss.

How buyers can recognise a genuine Swiss watch

A printed label on its own proves little. Look for a traceable origin: a manufacturer with a registered office and commercial register entry in Switzerland, information about the movement used, and a certificate of authenticity. Reputable makers answer questions about movement, production and warranty openly.

Every Bow-Watch-Tie is numbered and delivered in a piano-lacquered wooden case with a certificate of authenticity – physical and on the blockchain – and a 2-year warranty. If anything is unclear, ask the manufacturer directly.

Why the rules matter for the watch industry

The indication “Swiss” carries strong recognition for watches. The ordinance aims to prevent this reputation from being used for watches whose value is mostly created abroad. For buyers it provides a verifiable basis; for manufacturers it sets clear obligations.

The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH, headquartered in Biel/Bienne, works to protect the designation. For binding answers in individual cases, the official text on fedlex.admin.ch and a qualified professional are authoritative.

Frequently asked questions